The raw material used in the core. Better species = better moisture resistance and density.
CONSTRUCTION = HOW IT'S BUILT
The format
Multiply plywood · 3-layer stave · HDF slab
The way the core is assembled. More cross-laminated layers = more stable board. Construction matters more than material for direct stick.
WHAT TO SAY TO A CLIENT
"Engineered timber is real wood on top — that's what you see and walk on. Underneath is a core made from cross-bonded timber layers, like plywood. Those layers work against each other, stopping the floor from expanding and contracting with the seasons. Ours has 9 layers underneath. Budget products have 3. That's the difference between a 25-year floor and a 10-year floor."
Core Materials
ATFA: "The material used in the core affects moisture response and dimensional stability. A core the same species as the face lamella results in superior balance and performance." Here is every material you'll encounter — best to worst.
1
Eucalyptus Hardwood PlyHigh density · Dense grain · Best adhesive hold
BEST
What it is: A dense Australian hardwood species used as the ply layers in the core. Often used in same-species construction where the core matches the face lamella.
Why it's best: Highest density per layer. Excellent moisture resistance compared to softwoods. Strong adhesive bond. Resists movement under humidity swings.
Watch for: Heavier boards — higher freight cost. Ask the importer to confirm species. Some products claim "hardwood core" but use cheap softwood.
2
Poplar PlyLightweight · Very stable · European standard
EXCELLENT
What it is: A plantation-grown European timber. Lightweight, very consistent grain. The most common core material in premium European engineered timber.
Why it works: Highly stable in cross-laminated format. Lighter than eucalyptus — easier to handle and install. Used by German, Austrian, and French manufacturers.
Watch for: Reacts more quickly to humidity changes than eucalyptus — slightly more sensitive in SA's extreme summer/winter swings. In 9-ply format, the construction compensates well.
3
Pine / Softwood PlyCommon in budget product · Acceptable at high ply count
ACCEPTABLE
What it is: Standard plantation pine used as the ply layers. Very common in Chinese-manufactured multiply products.
When it works: Acceptable at 9-ply and above where the construction compensates for the softer species. Less dense per layer than hardwood but high ply count makes up for it.
Watch for: Lower adhesive hold per layer than hardwood or poplar. Softer — more susceptible to compression under point loads. Don't accept pine core at low ply counts (under 7).
4
Hevea Brasiliensis (Rubber Tree)Plantation hardwood · Stave construction · Marketed as premium
GOOD MATERIAL — WATCH CONSTRUCTION
What it is: A plantation hardwood (rubber tree) similar in density to White Oak. Used as stave blocks — solid timber finger-joints — in a 3-layer construction. Marketed heavily as superior to standard ply.
Why it's decent: Better material than pine stave. Dense, hard, decent moisture resistance. Legitimate product from reputable brands.
The problem: It is always a 3-layer stave construction — not multiply. The marketing overstates it. For direct stick on wide boards (over 180mm), the construction risk is the same as any 3-layer product: telegraphing if blocks shift, and less restraint against movement than 9-ply.
Bottom line: Good for floating. Use on direct stick only under 180mm with manufacturer approval.
5
HDF — High Density FibreboardCompressed wood fibre · Float preferred · Premium brands only for glue-down
CONDITIONS APPLY
What it is: Not a timber species — a manufactured panel of compressed wood fibre, wax, and resin. Very flat and uniform. Used in budget and premium floating products alike.
Where it works: Excellent for floating floors. Tight, flat, consistent. Premium brands like Quick-Step engineer their HDF to a higher density standard and test it for glue-down. 7-coat lacquer and Uniclic joins make surface water resistance very good.
The critical limitation: HDF has no moisture recovery. If water reaches the core from below (wet slab, flooding, pipe burst), it swells permanently and never returns to original shape. The "waterproof" claim refers to the surface finish — not the core.
Our rule: Premium European brands (Quick-Step, Välinge etc) with written manufacturer glue-down approval only. Slab moisture content (MC) must be well under 5.5% — no borderline readings. Unknown brand HDF = float only.
✗
MDF, Fiberboard & Composite BaseAvoid entirely · No adhesive bond · No sanding life
NEVER STOCK
What it is: Medium density fibreboard, generic fiberboard, or wood/plastic composite used as a base layer. ATFA identifies these as a lower construction tier entering the market, typically from budget manufacturers.
Why to reject: Cannot hold adhesive for direct stick. No structural integrity under point load. Swells and does not recover when wet. No sanding life — the lamella is usually under 2mm. No path to refinishing. Warranty claims go nowhere.
Red flag phrase to listen for: "Composite base," "engineered base," or "solid fibre core." These are MDF or fiberboard by another name. Walk away.
Material Quick Reference
Material
Type
Density
Direct Stick
Best Use
Eucalyptus hardwood ply
Natural timber
High
✓ Best
Premium direct stick, wide boards
Poplar ply
Natural timber
Medium-high
✓ Excellent
Standard residential, European product
Pine ply
Natural timber
Medium
✓ At 9-ply+
Budget-mid range — only at high ply count
Hevea stave
Natural timber
Medium-high
⚠ Under 180mm
Floating preferred. Direct stick only narrow boards.
HDF — premium brand
Manufactured panel
High (engineered)
⚠ Conditions
Floating or dry-slab glue-down, premium brand only
HDF — unknown brand
Manufactured panel
Variable
✗ No
Float only
MDF / composite
Manufactured panel
Low
✗ Never
Do not stock
Core Construction
ATFA: "Board construction varies significantly between products. The cross-laminated core reduces width movement when moisture content changes — the more layers, the more stable the board."
Construction Types — Visual
9-Ply MultiplyRECOMMENDED
3mm
✓ PREFERRED
5-Ply MultiplyMINIMUM
3mm
⚠ MINIMUM
3-Layer StaveFLOAT PREFERRED
3mm
stave blocks
⚠ CAUTION
HDF CoreSEE CONDITIONS
veneer
HDF premium only
⚠ TAP FOR RULES ↓
MDF/CompositeNEVER
thin
MDF/ composite
✗ DO NOT STOCK
WHY PLY COUNT MATTERS
Each ply layer is glued at 90° to the one above and below. The layers fight against each other — so when humidity changes and the timber tries to move, each layer resists the next. More layers = more resistance = less movement. A 3-ply board has almost no restraint. A 9-ply board is nearly locked.
Construction Rules for Direct Stick
Construction
Direct Stick
Max Width
Why
9–12 Ply Multiply
✓ Best option
220mm+
Maximum cross-laminated restraint. Best for all direct stick jobs.
7-Ply Multiply
✓ Good
200mm
Solid performer. Low risk with correct adhesive.
5-Ply Multiply
⚠ Minimum
180mm
Acceptable for narrow boards only. Do not push wide.
3-Layer Stave
⚠ Caution
180mm
Less restraint than ply. Telegraphing risk if blocks shift. Float preferred.
HDF — Premium Brand
⚠ Conditions apply
190mm
Quick-Step / reputable European only. Manufacturer glue-down approval in writing. Slab moisture content (MC) must be well under 5.5%. No borderline readings — HDF has no margin.
HDF — Unknown Brand
✗ Float only
—
No guarantee of density or moisture performance. Do not direct stick.
MDF / Composite
✗ Never
—
No adhesive hold. No structural integrity. Do not stock.
The Waterproof Misconception
WHAT "WATERPROOF" ACTUALLY MEANS
The surface
7+ coat UV lacquer and a tight click join resist everyday spills. Wipe it up — no damage. This part is real and genuine.
WHAT IT DOES NOT MEAN
The core
HDF swells permanently when water reaches it from below — burst pipe, wet slab, flooding. Waterproof surface ≠ waterproof floor. Think: raincoat on a cardboard box.
Lamella & Finish
ATFA: "Veneers are typically up to 2mm thick while a lamella is thicker — often 2.5mm to 6mm. Those with thin veneers cannot be sanded back to bare timber without risk of penetrating the base layer."
Wear Layer Thickness
Thickness
Can Sand?
Floor Life
Sell As
Under 2mm
No — cannot sand
≈ 10 yr
Only with written client briefing — see script below
2mm
One very light sand
10–15 yr
Budget and volume builds only
3mm
Full sand + recoat
15–25 yr
Main range — standard offer
4mm+
2–3 sands over life
25+ yr
Premium — sell at a higher margin
UNDER 2MM — WHAT TO TELL THE CLIENT (document this)
"This is a real timber floor with a defined life. When the finish wears, you replace it rather than sand it back — similar to a painted floor. Great value at this price point for a 10–15 year floor. That's just something to know upfront."
How the Lamella is Cut — Ask Every Importer
SAWN CUT — REQUEST THIS
Stronger grain
Cut through the timber like a saw. Produces a strong, stable lamella with good grain definition. Less prone to surface checking in low humidity. This is what you want.
ROTARY / PEELED — LOWER QUALITY
Peeled from the log
Faster and cheaper to produce. Creates micro-cracks called "lathe checks" that telegraph through the finish over time — especially when humidity drops in SA winters. Common in budget product.
Surface Finish
UV LACQUER — MAIN RANGE
Hard film on surface
High scratch resistance. Low maintenance — mop and done. Can chip under impact. Most popular for families, pets, high traffic.
Minimum 7 coats. Ask the brand name — Bona, Rubio Monocoat, Woca, Loba. Under 5 coats or unknown brand = reject.
UV OIL — PREMIUM TIER
Penetrates into timber
Scratches blend into the wood tone — less visible. Never chips or peels. Requires periodic re-oiling (every 2–5 years).
Higher margin. Best for clients who want a natural, matte look.
RED FLAG ON LACQUER
If a supplier says "premium multi-coat lacquer" but cannot tell you the coat count or brand name — it's a 3-coat budget finish. It will fail within 2 years. That warranty claim becomes yours.
Climate & Humidity
ATFA: "Timber is hygroscopic — it absorbs moisture when humidity is high and releases it when humidity is low. When moisture content changes, board width changes. Engineered timber reduces this movement but does not eliminate it."
What is Equilibrium Moisture Content?
THE KEY CONCEPT — EQUILIBRIUM
Timber is always trying to match the moisture level of the air around it. When it succeeds — when the moisture content (MC) of the timber matches the air — it stops moving. That state is called equilibrium.
The problem is the air in a home keeps changing — warm dry days in winter, humid summer nights. Every change shifts the equilibrium, and the board responds.
This is why the home environment at the time of installation matters so much. A floor installed in an empty house, with no heating or cooling running, will reach equilibrium with that empty-house climate. When the client moves in and the home's climate changes — the floor has to move again.
Relative Humidity (RH) → Moisture Content (MC) → Board Movement
ATFA: "An unrestrained 80mm wide board will shrink or swell by about 0.25mm for each 1% change in moisture content." This is what humidity does to a floor in practice.
30% RH
≈ 6% MC
Very dry. Board shrinks. Gaps open at joins. SA winter with heating on.
45% RH
≈ 8% MC
Low end of ideal. Board slightly contracted. Air conditioning in use.
55% RH
≈ 11% MC
Ideal. Where most timber is manufactured. Board stable. No movement.
75% RH
≈ 14% MC
Board swelling. Joins tighten. SA summer humidity without cooling.
85%+ RH
≈ 17% MC
Cupping risk. Joins peak. Beyond normal living conditions.
The Safe Range
DANGER Gaps + Checks 0–35%
CAUTION 35–40%
✓ IDEAL 40–60%
CAUTION 60–70%
DANGER Cupping 70–100%
0%10%20%30%40%50%60%70%80%90%100%
Adelaide — Our Climate
SUMMER RISK — HIGH HUMIDITY
Board swells
Hot humid days push relative humidity (RH) up. Board absorbs moisture and swells across its width. Joins tighten and can peak. Worse on floating floors — no adhesive holding the board down.
WINTER RISK — LOW HUMIDITY
Board shrinks
Heating dries the air. Relative humidity (RH) can drop below 35%. Board releases moisture and shrinks. Gaps open at joins. Surface checking (cracks along the grain) on thin veneer under 2mm.
Before Installation — Climate Rules
THE RULE — OCCUPIED, CLIMATE-CONTROLLED HOME
The floor needs to be laid into the environment it will live in for the rest of its life.
→ Heating or cooling should be running normally — as the occupants will use it
→ Boards should sit in the room for 48–72 hours before laying (acclimatisation)
→ The floor will then reach equilibrium with the living climate — and stay stable
Avoid installing in an empty home with no heating or cooling at all. The floor will acclimatise to that extreme — then have to move again once people move in. This is when end-lift, gapping, and cupping happen in the first year.
EXTREME CASES — WHEN TO DELAY INSTALLATION
If a home has no working heating or cooling system at all, or is in an extreme weather period (40°C+ days, sustained rain causing high indoor humidity), it is better to delay installation. This is not about daily weather — it is about the in-service climate the floor will permanently live in. A delay of a few weeks is far better than a floor that fails in year one.
Installation Process
Every step, every time. One skipped step is where warranty claims start. Document everything.
3-in-1 Moisture Testing — Do All Three
TEST 1
Surface Moisture Content (MC)
≤ 5.5% MC
Use a Tramex meter on the slab surface. Test corners, centre, doorways. Moisture Content (MC) is the percentage of water in the material.
Fail = adhesive bond breaks down. Floor lifts.
TEST 2
In-Slab Relative Humidity (RH)
≤ 75% RH
Drill to 40% of slab depth. Insert RH probe. Leave 72 hours. Relative Humidity (RH) shows how much moisture is rising from below. Ground-level slabs only.
Fail = moisture rising from ground. Board swells from below.
TEST 3
Alkalinity (pH Level)
≤ pH 9
pH strip on a dampened slab surface. High alkalinity (above pH 9) degrades MS Polymer adhesive silently over time.
Fail = slow adhesive degradation. Floor loosens over years.
NON-NEGOTIABLE
Write the date, location, and all three readings on your job sheet before you lay a single board. This written record is your only protection in a warranty dispute. No record = no defence.
Subfloor Types & Limits
🏗 Concrete Slab≤ 5.5% MC
Moisture barrier on ALL ground-level slabs — even if the reading looks dry. Slabs pull moisture from the ground over time.
MS Polymer adhesive. 4–6mm V-notch trowel. Flatness check: 3mm over 3 metres.
🧱 Hebel (AAC Panel)≤ 5.5% MC
Prime the surface with a Hebel-compatible primer before adhesive — Hebel is porous and will absorb adhesive into the panel rather than holding the board.
3mm notch trowel only. Maximum 14mm board thickness. Confirm with Sika or Bostik technical data sheet.
🪵 Structural Plywood (F17)10–14% MC
Best timber subfloor for direct stick. Holds adhesive and secret nail well. ATFA-recognised substrate.
⚠ Yellow Tongue / ChipboardNO DIRECT STICK
Too soft for a reliable adhesive bond. Float only — or overlay with F17 structural plywood before direct sticking.
Adhesive — What to Use
✓ APPROVED — MS POLYMER ONLY
Bostik UltraSet HP — most common on site Sika Bond T55 — wide temperature range Mapei Ultrabond Eco — ATFA approved, good for herringbone
4–6mm V-notch trowel on concrete. 3mm notch on Hebel.
✗ NEVER USE THESE
Water-based adhesive — introduces moisture into the system. Bond breaks down over time. Rigid epoxy — no flex. Timber moves; adhesive doesn't. Board cracks. Cement-based — no elasticity. Never suitable for timber.
Installation Steps
1
Check the home is ready
Heating or cooling should be running as normal. Confirm subfloor type. Do not lay in an empty home with no climate control — the floor will acclimatise to the wrong environment.
2
Run all three moisture tests
Surface moisture content (MC) ≤ 5.5%, in-slab relative humidity (RH) ≤ 75%, pH ≤ 9. Write all readings down with the date and location before laying a single board.
3
Flatness check
3mm over 3 metres maximum. Grind high spots. Self-level low spots. Adhesive does not fill gaps in the subfloor.
4
Prepare the subfloor
Clean, dust-free, free of paint or oil. Moisture barrier on all ground-level concrete slabs. Prime Hebel with compatible primer.
5
Acclimatise boards
Leave boards in the room, flat, for 48–72 hours minimum. Away from drafts and direct sun. Heating or cooling running the whole time.
6
Apply adhesive
MS Polymer only. Correct notch trowel for the subfloor. Don't apply more than you can cover before the adhesive skins over — roughly 15–20 minutes.
7
Lay boards and leave expansion gaps
10mm minimum gap at all fixed edges, columns, and thresholds. Blend boards from multiple packs to avoid colour patches.
8
Allow to cure, then hand over
24–48 hours before foot traffic. Fit all trims and cover strips. Hand over with a written maintenance guide. No wet mopping during the cure period.
Buying Guide
Simple rules for every product and supplier decision. If a product doesn't meet these, it doesn't go on the floor.
✓ BUY THIS
✓3mm+ lamella — main rangeStandard offer to all clients
⚠Under 2mm — written client briefing onlyDocument it. Client acknowledges no refinish.
✓9-ply multiply (7-ply minimum)Hardwood, poplar, or pine — species confirmed in writing
✓T&G for direct stickOr 5G click with confirmed manufacturer glue-down approval
✓UV lacquer — 7+ coats, named brand
✓14–21mm total thickness · 180–220mm wide
✓E0 or E1 formaldehyde certificate · local AU warranty
⚠HDF — premium European brand onlyWritten glue-down approval + slab well under 5.5% moisture content (MC)
✗ NEVER BUY THIS
✗HDF — unknown brand for direct stickNo quality control. Swells permanently if moisture hits.
✗MDF / composite / fiberboard coreDo not stock. Ever.
✗3-ply for direct stickToo flexible. Fails under adhesive stress.
✗Click-only — no glue-down approval
✗Under 5 lacquer coats / unknown lacquer brandFails in 2 years. Warranty claim becomes yours.
✗No E0 or E1 formaldehyde certificate
✗No local Australian warranty holder
Ask Every Supplier These Questions
Question
Minimum Required
Red Flag
Construction format?
Multiply ply / 3-layer stave / HDF — must state which
"Multi-layer" with no format specified
How many plies?
7 minimum, 9 preferred. A specific number.
"Multi-layer" with no number = often 3-ply
Core species or material?
Hardwood, poplar, pine, Hevea — confirmed
"Composite base" or "engineered base"
Lamella thickness — measured?
3mm minimum. Test report preferred.
Stated 3mm — no proof. Likely 2.2mm.
Lacquer coats and brand?
7 coats minimum. Named brand.
"Premium multi-coat" with no specifics
Australian warranty holder?
Local name and address for claims
"Contact the factory" — no local support
Formaldehyde certificate?
E0 or E1. Actual certificate, not just a claim.
Cannot produce the certificate
Red Flags — Phrases That Should Stop the Conversation
"Multi-layer core" — no ply count given
Ask: exactly how many layers? "Multi-layer" can mean 3-ply. It means nothing without a number.
Lamella stated as 3mm — no test report available
Budget manufacturers routinely state 3mm, measure 2.2mm. Ask for a measured technical data sheet.
"Composite base" or "engineered base" as the core description
These are names for MDF or fiberboard. Not a timber core. Reject immediately.
Cannot name the lacquer brand or coat count
"Premium lacquer" with no specifics is a 3-coat budget finish. It fails in 2 years. That claim is yours.
"Waterproof" product for glue-down over a wet slab
The waterproof claim is the surface finish — not the core. The slab moisture content (MC) still needs to pass. Always test.
No Australian warranty holder — "contact the factory"
That factory will not respond to a claim. You need a name and address in Australia.
Hevea marketed as superior to multiply for direct stick on wide boards
Hevea is a better stave material — but it is still 3-layer stave construction. Same risks apply on wide boards.
Water-based adhesive listed as acceptable in their technical sheet
Water-based adhesive introduces moisture and breaks down over time. MS Polymer only — no exceptions.
THE RULE
If a supplier cannot answer Construction + Species + Ply count + Lacquer brand + Coat count + Australian warranty holder — in plain English, in writing — the product is not ready for your floor.
Source: ATFA Engineered Flooring Industry Standard — atfa.com.au
Timber Species
The face lamella is the timber the client sees and walks on every day. Species determines colour, grain, hardness, and character. Know these confidently — clients ask constantly.
Hardness — Janka Rating
WHAT IS JANKA?
The Janka rating measures how hard a timber is — specifically, the force required to push a small steel ball halfway into the wood. Higher number = harder, more scratch-resistant. Relevant for clients with dogs, kids, or high heels. Engineered timber with a hardwood lamella retains the full Janka rating of that species.
OAK
European OakJanka 5.5 kN · Most popular engineered timber species worldwide
VOLUME SELLER
Appearance: Warm honey to light brown tones. Pronounced grain with characteristic medullary rays (the fleck pattern). Wide range of stains and finishes take well.
Performance: Medium hardness — good for most residential applications. Not the hardest option but very forgiving in appearance when it does mark. Handles humidity variation well.
Best for: Any residential project. Particularly strong in wide-board herringbone and chevron formats. The safe recommendation for almost any client.
Watch for: "European Oak" is used broadly. Some products use Russian or American Oak — both acceptable but slightly different character. Ask origin if the client cares about provenance.
BB
BlackbuttJanka 9.1 kN · Premium Australian hardwood
PREMIUM AU
Appearance: Pale straw to light brown. Subtle, fine grain. Clean, contemporary look. Very popular in new residential builds for its neutral tone.
Performance: Very hard. Excellent scratch and dent resistance. Handles pets and high traffic well. One of Australia's most specified flooring timbers for good reason.
Best for: Families with dogs, high-traffic areas, clients wanting a light neutral floor. Pairs well with white walls and coastal or contemporary interiors.
Watch for: The engineered version uses a real Blackbutt lamella over a ply core — make sure the lamella is sawn-cut for best appearance and performance.
SG
Spotted GumJanka 11.0 kN · Hardest common flooring species
PREMIUM HARD
Appearance: Medium to dark brown with distinctive wavy interlocked grain and occasional "gum veins." High character — no two boards look the same. Unmistakably Australian.
Performance: Extremely hard — one of the hardest commercially available flooring timbers. Outstanding dent and scratch resistance.
Best for: Clients who want maximum durability. Commercial applications. High character premium residential where the grain variation is a selling point.
Watch for: The character and colour variation can be significant. Show clients samples from multiple boards so they understand what they're getting. Not for clients wanting a uniform, consistent look.
WAL
WalnutJanka 4.5 kN · Premium dark species · Design market
DESIGN MARKET
Appearance: Rich chocolate brown to near-black. Fine, straight grain with occasional figuring. The premium choice for dark floors. Strong design statement.
Performance: Softer than Australian hardwoods — more susceptible to denting under high heels or pet claws. Compensated by the fact that marks tend to blend into the dark tone.
Best for: Design-focused clients. Luxury residential. Spaces where the aesthetic statement is the priority. Pairs with dark furniture and feature walls.
Watch for: Softer than it looks. Set expectations with clients about marks. Oil finish suits Walnut better than lacquer — it enhances the grain and is easier to spot-repair.
ASH
AshJanka 6.0 kN · Light, clean look · European origin
POPULAR
Appearance: Very light — almost white to pale grey tones. Prominent straight grain. Clean, Scandinavian aesthetic. Increasingly popular in contemporary interiors.
Performance: Good hardness. Stable species. Takes stains and white-wash finishes very well — popular for wire-brushed and whitened products.
Best for: Clients wanting a light, airy, contemporary look. Open-plan living. Pairs well with natural stone and concrete surfaces.
Watch for: Very light floors show dirt and scuff marks more readily than mid-tones. Worth mentioning to clients in high-traffic areas.
Quick Comparison
Species
Janka
Colour
Best Market
Watch For
Spotted Gum
11.0 kN
Medium-dark brown
Commercial, high traffic, character lovers
High variation — show multiple samples
Blackbutt
9.1 kN
Pale straw to light brown
Families, pets, contemporary builds
Confirm sawn-cut lamella
Ash
6.0 kN
Very light — near white
Scandinavian / contemporary
Shows marks more readily
European Oak
5.5 kN
Honey to warm brown
Any residential — volume seller
Ask timber origin if provenance matters
Walnut
4.5 kN
Rich chocolate-dark brown
Luxury, design-focused
Softer — set dent expectations
Floating vs Direct Stick
ATFA: "Direct adhesive fixed floors perform differently to floating floors in terms of movement, sound, and stability. The right method depends on the subfloor, the product, and the environment."
DIRECT STICK — GLUED TO SUBFLOOR
What it is
Boards are bonded directly to the subfloor using MS Polymer adhesive. The adhesive restrains the board — it cannot move freely with humidity changes.
Underfoot feel: Solid, firm. No flex. Feels like part of the building. Sound: Quiet. Virtually no hollow sound underfoot. Humidity movement: Less — the adhesive restrains the board. Stress goes into the face if conditions are extreme. Best for: Concrete slab, Hebel, structural ply. Our core business.
FLOATING — NOT FIXED TO SUBFLOOR
What it is
Boards click together but sit loose on the subfloor — not glued or nailed down. The floor "floats" as one connected sheet and moves with humidity as a whole.
Underfoot feel: Slightly springy. Small amount of flex. Some clients notice it. Sound: More hollow underfoot. Underlay reduces this significantly. Humidity movement: More — the whole floor can shift. Expansion gaps are critical. Best for: Yellow tongue subfloors, over tiles, renovation projects where you can't glue.
Which to Recommend — Decision Guide
Situation
Recommend
Why
Concrete slab — moisture content (MC) under 5.5%
Direct stick
Most stable result. Best underfoot feel. Our preferred method.
Concrete slab — borderline moisture reading
Float or wait
Don't glue onto a wet slab. Float it or wait for the slab to dry.
Hebel (AAC) subfloor
Direct stick
With primer and 3mm trowel. Confirm product is approved for Hebel.
Structural plywood (F17)
Direct stick
Best timber subfloor. Adhesive and secret nail both work.
Yellow tongue / chipboard
Float only
Too soft for adhesive bond. Float or overlay with F17 ply first.
Over existing tiles
Float only
Cannot guarantee adhesive bond to glazed surface. Float with underlay.
Client wants HDF product (Nature's Oak etc)
Float preferred
Designed for floating. If gluing, slab must be well under 5.5% MC — no margin.
Herringbone or chevron pattern
Direct stick only
Pattern cannot float — too many joins moving in different directions. Must be glued.
The Underfoot Feel Conversation
WHAT TO SAY WHEN A CLIENT ASKS
"Direct stick feels like solid timber — firm underfoot, no flex, completely quiet. Floating has a very slight spring to it, which most people get used to quickly. If you've ever walked on a floor that felt a little hollow or bouncy, that was floating. Our preference is always to glue it down when the subfloor allows — you get a better result."
Care & Maintenance
Hand this information to every client at installation. Clear maintenance guidance reduces your after-sale calls and protects the warranty — most finish failures are caused by incorrect cleaning products.
First 48 Hours
IMMEDIATELY AFTER INSTALL — DO NOT
No foot traffic for 24 hours. No wet mopping for 48 hours. No furniture for 48 hours. No rugs or mats for 72 hours. The adhesive is still curing — weight and moisture at this stage can cause bond failure or surface marks.
Ongoing Cleaning
✓ USE THESE
Dry microfibre mop — daily dust and debris. Best regular tool.
Slightly damp mop — wrung out almost completely dry. Quick passes only.
Timber-specific floor cleaner — Bona, Synteko, or manufacturer's own brand. pH neutral, no residue.
Soft cloths for spills — blot, don't rub.
✗ NEVER USE THESE
Steam mop — forces moisture through the finish into the timber. Voids warranty. Most common cause of surface damage.
Vinegar or ammonia — strips the lacquer over time. Finish goes dull and patchy.
Bleach or harsh chemical cleaners — permanent damage to both finish and timber.
Soaking wet mop — water ingress at joins. Board swells.
Lacquered Floors — Long Term
RECOATING — WHEN AND HOW
A lacquered floor with a 3mm+ lamella can be screen-abraded and recoated when the finish starts to look dull or worn — typically every 8–15 years depending on traffic. This is not a full sand — it's a light abrasion of the existing finish and application of new coats. Far less disruptive than a full sand.
Full sand and recoat is possible once or twice over the floor's life on a 3mm lamella, or 2–3 times on 4mm+. Always check remaining lamella thickness before sanding. Never sand an unknown or under 2mm lamella.
Oiled Floors — Long Term
RE-OILING — WHEN AND HOW
Oiled floors need periodic re-oiling to maintain protection — typically every 2–5 years depending on traffic and sunlight exposure. Signs it's time: water no longer beads on the surface, floor looks dry or slightly grey.
Spot repairs are easy on oiled floors — a small area can be re-oiled without the patchy result you'd get trying to spot-repair a lacquered floor. This is a genuine selling point for oiled finishes.
Protecting the Floor
Situation
What To Do
Furniture legs
Felt pads on all legs. Replace when worn — a bare furniture leg on timber scratches every time it moves.
Entry points
Door mats inside and outside to trap grit. Grit underfoot is the most common cause of surface scratches.
Pet claws
Keep nails trimmed. Consider a harder species (Blackbutt or Spotted Gum) for households with large dogs.
High heels
A stiletto heel can exert enormous point load pressure. Any timber floor can dent under a sharp heel. Mention this for Walnut or softer species.
Sunlight
All timber changes colour in sunlight over time — this is natural. Move rugs occasionally to avoid sharp contrast lines where covered vs uncovered.
Spills
Blot immediately. Never leave standing water on the floor. Lacquer protects against brief contact — not sustained exposure.
Client FAQs
The questions clients ask most often — with short, confident answers your team can use on the spot.
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Can I put engineered timber in a wet area — bathroom or laundry?
Short answer: No. Engineered timber is not suitable for wet areas. Even with a waterproof surface finish, the joins and edges allow moisture to reach the core over time — particularly in a bathroom where steam and water contact are regular. Use tiles, vinyl, or a waterproof product designed for wet areas. Engineered timber starts from the laundry door, not inside it.
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Can I put it over underfloor heating?
Short answer: Some products yes — but you must check the specific product's approval.
Engineered timber handles underfloor heating better than solid timber because the cross-laminated core is more stable. However, not every product is approved for it. The key requirements are: maximum surface temperature of 27°C, the heating must ramp up and down slowly (not switch abruptly), and the product must carry explicit underfloor heating approval in its technical data sheet. Always confirm with the manufacturer before recommending. If approved, direct stick is preferred — floating over underfloor heating increases movement risk.
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My floor is gapping — is that normal?
Short answer: Small seasonal gaps are normal. Large or permanent gaps are not.
ATFA: "Timber flooring will shrink in dry conditions and expand in humid conditions." In SA, it is completely normal to see fine gaps appear in winter when heating is running and humidity drops — and for those gaps to close in summer. If the gaps are large (over 1mm consistently), permanent, or appear in summer when humidity is higher, that points to a problem: the floor was laid too wet, the subfloor was too wet, or the climate in the home is extreme. Start with a moisture content (MC) reading of the board and document it.
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Can I install over existing tiles?
Short answer: Yes — floating only.
You cannot reliably direct stick over glazed tiles because the adhesive cannot bond to a sealed surface. However, a floating engineered timber floor over tiles is a common and successful approach. Tiles must be in good condition — no loose, cracked, or hollow tiles. Use a 3mm foam or cork underlay to buffer any unevenness. Be aware the floor height will increase, which can affect door clearances and transitions to other rooms.
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How long before I can put furniture back?
For direct stick: wait 48 hours before moving heavy furniture onto the floor. Light foot traffic after 24 hours is fine. For floating: furniture can go back after 24 hours — there is no adhesive cure to wait for. In both cases, fit felt pads to all furniture legs before moving anything back in.
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Will the colour change over time?
Yes — all timber changes colour in sunlight. This is not a defect — it is a natural characteristic of real timber. Most Australian hardwoods (Blackbutt, Spotted Gum) darken and deepen with UV exposure. European Oak can go either way depending on the finish — some lighten, some amber. Walnut tends to lighten slightly over time. The key message: move rugs and furniture occasionally so the whole floor changes evenly, rather than creating sharp contrast lines between covered and exposed areas.
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Is engineered timber better than solid timber?
For most Australian applications — yes, practically.
Solid timber has more sanding life and can last 80+ years in the right conditions. But it moves significantly more with humidity — something SA's climate makes difficult to manage. Engineered timber gives you the look and feel of real timber with far less movement, the ability to go wider and longer in board format, and the ability to direct stick to concrete (which solid timber can't). For new builds on concrete slabs — which is most of what we install — engineered is the right product in most cases.
Competitor Product Check
When a client comes in with a competitor quote, use this table to quickly identify how that product stacks up against our standards. Use it to have an honest, informed conversation — not to dismiss competitors unfairly.
HOW TO USE THIS
Ask the client for the product name and brand. Find it below. Use the information to explain the difference — not to trash the competitor, but to show the client what they're comparing. Always be honest. Some competitor products are genuinely good. Some aren't. Know the difference.
Brand / Product
Core
Lamella
Finish
Our Assessment
Quick-Step Nature's Oak Premium Floors / Quick-Step
HDF
2.5mm European Oak
7-coat lacquer (Uniclic)
Legitimate quality product. Below our 3mm lamella preference. HDF = float preferred. Good for clients wanting a floating solution.
Heartridge by Dunlop Various ranges
3-layer eucalyptus core (some ranges)
2–4mm (range-dependent)
UV lacquer
Quality varies significantly by range. 3-layer construction — confirm ply count before recommending for direct stick over 180mm wide. Ask for TDS.
Boral Timber Various engineered ranges
Multiply or HDF (range-dependent)
2–3mm
UV lacquer or oil
Reputable Australian brand. Quality product. Ask which specific range — construction varies. AU warranty backed locally.
Flooring Lab / Organic ranges Hevea stave core products
Hevea stave (3-layer)
3–4mm
UV oil or lacquer
Good material (Hevea) but still 3-layer stave construction. Float preferred for wide boards. Direct stick only under 180mm with approval. Better than pine stave.
Budget / Unbranded Chinese No-name or unknown importer
Unknown / MDF / composite
Often under 2mm actual
Often 3-coat unknown lacquer
High risk. Cannot verify any spec. No AU warranty. Do not recommend. Use this as a teaching moment with the client about what they're actually comparing.
When a Client Has a Cheaper Quote
WHAT TO SAY
"Happy to look at what they're quoting. Can you find out the brand and product name? What I'll check for you is the lamella thickness — that's the real timber on top — and what the core is made from. A 2mm lamella versus a 3mm lamella looks identical in the box but means the difference between a floor you can sand and refinish versus one you replace. Once we know the specs, we can compare properly."